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Hyperpigmentation 101

Hyperpigmentation is a skin concern that appears as dark spots on the face. This happens when the skin produces too much melanin, the substance that gives skin its colour – and it can be brought on by a few different causes. Some kinds of dark spots fade on their own, while others stay around long-term and can affect how you feel about your skin.

Pigmented spots can be hard to cover with makeup or fade with your usual skincare routine, so if you’re in need of a targeted approach, the first step is to understand which type of hyperpigmentation you’re experiencing. There’s more than one! Read on to learn what causes pigmentation on the face, the three types and how you can tackle them with Kiehl’s apothecary skincare.

What causes hyperpigmentation?

The causes of hyperpigmentation can be categorised into a few broad groups: genetic, environmental or a combination of the two. It’s also important to note that people with darker skin tones are more likely to experience a specific type of skin hyperpigmentation called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (we’ll explore this in more depth later). To start with, here are the activities and factors that can cause dark spots on skin:1

  • UV (sun) exposure
  • Certain skin conditions
  • Skin injuries like bug bites, cuts and burns
  • Blemishes
  • Hormonal factors
  • Some medical conditions

1https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC10304091/

What are the 3 types of hyperpigmentation?

Did you know there are 3 distinct types of skin hyperpigmentation? While we recommend getting to know which type you’re experiencing, the skincare approach for fading skin pigmentation is consistent and can be personalised to your preferences. Below, see a breakdown of each of the types:
  • Sun spots: sometimes called ‘age spots’ or ‘liver spots’, sun spots are a type of dark spot on the skin caused by UV exposure. Since UV exposure builds up over the course of a lifetime, sun spots become more common later in life. They look like brown, tan or dark spots depending on your skin tone.
  • Melasma: melasma is a skin condition characterised by larger patches of discoloured skin. Though it’s caused by a variety of hormonal, environmental and genetic factors, it’s most common during pregnancy and for people with deeper skin tones.2
  • Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation: this type of hyperpigmentation can appear after the skin has undergone some kind of injury or inflammation. Some examples of this are blemishes, ingrown hairs, scratches, bug bites and sunburn.3
2https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/323808
3https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0022202X15526651

Can you prevent hyperpigmentation?

As outlined above, some causes of hyperpigmentation are due to factors outside of our control relating to genetics or hormones. But there is at least one primary factor that we can take steps to prevent: and that’s UV exposure.

To minimise UV exposure, we recommend applying a broad-spectrum SPF 50+ to your complexion each and every morning, making sure to use the amount outlined on the product label for effective coverage. When in doubt, try measuring out a teaspoon so you know how much to apply in future. Adhering to other sun safety tips like wearing a hat, sunglasses and protective clothing and seeking shade will help you avoid UV exposure and pigmentation on the face in the long run.

How to fade hyperpigmentation

Sun safety goes a long way towards preventing hyperpigmentation – but if you already have pigmentation on the face you’d like to fade, targeted skincare formulas can help. There are several skincare methods you can employ to fade hyperpigmentation caused by blemishes, UV exposure or other factors. These are fuelled by powerful formulas enriched with skin-brightening ingredients, and we’re here to break down which approach could be right for you.

Always remember to apply a broad-spectrum SPF in the morning to help your potent skincare ingredients do their best work. This will help to prevent further UV damage while supporting your skin to recover from existing damage. Once you have this crucial step down, consider adding one of the below into your skincare routine to help fade hyperpigmentation, or layer them for a multi-pronged technique.

Retinol and chemical exfoliants

The first method of visibly reducing skin hyperpigmentation consists of stimulating skin cell turnover – the natural process where dead skin cells are shed, bringing new skin to the surface. By supporting this process with powerful skincare ingredients, new skin that’s unmarked by dark spots can emerge and replace damaged skin cells. Two ingredients that can help with this are retinol and chemical exfoliants.

If you’re new to retinol, start off with a low-dose serum like Retinol Skin-Renewing Daily Micro-Dose Serum. Gentle enough for sensitive skin, you can apply this daily-strength retinol every evening to clean, dry skin for best results. In the morning, always use a broad-spectrum SPF as the final step of your skincare routine, as retinol can increase photosensitivity.

After gradually acclimating your skin to retinol, you can reach for a more concentrated formula like Retinol Fast Release Wrinkle-Reducing Night Serum. This night serum is designed to penetrate the skin deeply to help stimulate skin cell turnover and illuminate your complexion from within.

Alternatively, you can support healthy skin cell turnover with the help of a chemical exfoliant like glycolic acid or salicylic acid. For example, Ultra Pure High-Potency Serum 9.8% Glycolic Acid is packed with skin-refining glycolic acid which works to visibly diminish dark spots and smooth skin in 1 week.**

**Expert grading at week 2 during a 4-week clinical study.

Vitamin C and vitamin E

Antioxidants like vitamin C, vitamin E and some plant extracts can assist on your journey to fading hyperpigmentation. If you haven’t been acquainted, antioxidants are substances that can neutralise potentially-damaging molecules called ‘free radicals’ which, when exposed to skin, can cause stress to skin cells.

Oxidative stress can contribute to dark spots on the skin, so interrupting this process with antioxidants can help keep your face looking radiant and even. To make the most of the power of antioxidants to visibly reduce dark spots on the face, try a vitamin C serum like Clearly Corrective™ Dark Spot Solution. This multifaceted serum makes use of Activated C alongside salicylic acid and peony extract to effectively target pigmented spots.

Niacinamide

Often featured as a hero ingredient in brightening skincare, niacinamide has the sought-after ability to inhibit melanin transfer. As dark spots on the skin are the result of melanin accumulation, interrupting melanin transfer with niacinamide can help you make strides in reducing their appearance.

High potency serums and skin-brightening moisturisers are great ways to introduce niacinamide into your skincare ritual. To take the serum route, try Ultra Pure High-Potency 5% Niacinamide Serum. Apply to clean, dry skin both AM and PM to improve skin uniformity. If you’d prefer to try a brightening moisturiser, opt for Clearly Corrective Brightening & Smoothing Moisture Treatment, infused with a blend of niacinamide and vitamin C.

That’s a wrap on our hyperpigmentation 101 – next, learn how to visibly reduce wrinkles and fine lines.

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